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Nice article on wood barbecuing in the Carolina’s

This is what it takes to achieve barbecue fame in North Carolina:

Six days a week at 5 a.m., Jeff Jones, 63, crosses the two-lane highway in front of his house and walks up to the Skylight Inn in Ayden, a tiny farm town just outside of Greenville.

It’s five hours before the opening of the restaurant that is so revered in the world of barbecue that the owners put a replica of the Capitol dome on the roof.

Jones grabs a beat-up wheelbarrow and pulls it backward behind him as he trudges into a field littered with wood. He loads up with split logs of hickory and oak and hauls it into the smokehouse.

Then he starts another day of making barbecue.

Not just any barbecue: Wood-cooked barbecue, the famed chopped pork that draws fans from all over to the Carolinas. It’s been made here for generations, but is dwindling as restaurants across the South switch to cheaper and easier cooking methods.

Today, the fate of wood-fired barbecue rests with about two dozen restaurants. No one can say whether it will be here for future generations. But for the moment, the institution stubbornly smolders on in small towns from Shelby to Ayden where families carry on the tradition with the support from both locals and food fans in search of authentic fare.

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